The Anatomy

The Genuine Leather Upper:
A cow leather that makes up the upper half of the shoe is intended for the durability in industrial environment.

The Insole:
A inner sole that comes into contact with the foot.

The Slip Resistant Outsole:
The bottom sole that touches the ground provides greater traction on a variety of surfaces.

The Welt:
A trip of leather / rubber / plastic that runs along the perimeter of the outsole.

The Last:
During the construction process, the upper and insole are wrapped around a last (mold of foot) which helps to shape the shoe.

The Steel Toe Cap:
A steel toe cap with EN12567 standard certified is built to withstand an impact of 200 joules and a compression of 15,000 newton, ensuring safety at work.

The Steel Midsole Plate:
A protective midsole plate constructed in between the insole and outsole that resistant to nail penetration.

The Goodyear Welt Technology

Named after its inventor Mr Charles Goodyear Junior in 1869, the Goodyear welt machine used for process in shoe making is often cited as hallmark of well-made shoes. The construction technique was patented in 1891. The Goodyear Welt is usually applied to traditional footwear shapes that were developed in the mid 19th century ensuring a truly ageless quality. This technology is widely employed by shoemakers around the globe nowadays to extend the legacy in the shoe making history.

A Goodyear welt is a strip of leather or rubber that runs around the edge of the upper shoes, and is used to hold the components parts of the shoe together. The Goodyear Welt Construction involves running a welt in a lockstitch through the leather upper, insole with a special waxed yarn. This lockstitch reinforcement makes the shoe incredibly resilient and will withstand many days of hard use. As the welt forms an intermediary layer between the outsole and insole, the worn soles can be easily removed and replaced. Impact resistant nitrile outsole gives traction on the variety of surfaces.

The Process

The Goodyear Welt process is a machine based alternative to the traditional hand welted method for the manufacture of men shoe allowing the outsole to be replaced.
The Upper part of the shoe is shaped over the last, and fastened on by sewing a welt strip to the insole. The vertical ribs is created in order for the machine to run around the insole. The actual welting begins at this point when a special waxed yarn is sewn through the welt, the upper and the insole. The welt stitching holds the upper shoes and the insole firmly together. The welt forms a cavity which is then filled with a cork material. The final part is to cement the attached welted upper to the outsole with high strength adhesive. The benefit of using cementing is that is makes the boot lightweight and flexible.

The Benefit

Solidity:

Goodyear stitching ensures perfect adherence of the insole, sole, welt and upper leather, giving the shoe a top robustness.

Durability:

The precise sewing method makes Goodyear welted shoes solid, to ensure that the shoes processed according to the Goodyear’s technique will last a long time, beyond the normal wear of the outsole.

Convenience:

The midsole that fills the space between the insole and outsole provides a comfortable support for the foot, making these shoes beautiful and also comfortable.

Beyond the sole:

Most of the shoes on the market today, are of disposable quality. When the sole is worn (if the upper resists), the shoes have to be thrown away because replacing the sole would mean to destroy the shoe. In a Goodyear welted shoe, sole can be replaced without any damage to the rest of the structure.

Design:

Thanks to the particular technique of stitching, these shoes have a peculiar design, in which the upper, in correspondence of the stitching, curve inwards respect to the edge of the sole. One feature that makes these quality shoes perfectly recognizable.

The Cementing Construction

The Cementing is an individual process in itself. It is one of the most common methods of attaching an outsole to a shoe upper to form a shoe. In The GoodYear Welt Construction, cementing elaborates the process of shoe making which included adhering the welted upper shoes to the outsole with a strong adhesive.

In our 365 degree lockstitch, the welt is attached to the outsole through a separate stitch. It is a labor intensive. The double stitch reinforcement allows the safety shoe to be resole easily.

In this process the upper is attached to the insole by cement (this is where the name comes from). The sole is attached to the lasted upper by an adhesive method. The result is the permanent bond between three elements (upper, insole, sole). There is no stitching.

Not all methods of attaching the sole of a shoe are created equally. But there is one that is quick, simple and cost effective, appealing to gentlemen with an extensive, ever-evolving shoe collection. It may not evoke luxury per se, but cementing stands for highly esteemed values such as strength and resilience. Today, cementing is one of the most common methods of attaching a sole to a shoe, a process in which the upper is shaped and completed around the last and then the sole is attached without using a welt or any stitching process.
Cementing is in fact part of other construction methods including the elaborate Goodyear Welt, known as the oldest and most labour intensive soling processes. But it is also an individual process in itself. Why do shoemakers choose it? It is quick, simple and confers flexibility. It is perfect for the casual shoe or sneakers, bucks, chukkas and other rubber soled footwear where elaborate stitching would be over the top. The more cost-conscious gentlemen may appreciate the initial price tag of shoes built in this way as the method is comparably less expensive than Blake Stitching or Goodyear Welting for example. However, once the sole and upper are parted or damaged, this is the end of the love affair. A cemented shoe cannot be resoled, and so it may only have a limited longevity. Those who prefer their shoes to stay with them throughout all of life’s adventures may wish to consider other options. Variety is the spice of shoemaking after all.